{"id":30,"date":"2014-07-30T19:37:00","date_gmt":"2014-07-30T18:37:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/pellwallhelp.com\/blog\/2014\/07\/30\/lily-of-the-valley-mystery-manufacture-murder\/"},"modified":"2024-04-26T13:33:38","modified_gmt":"2024-04-26T12:33:38","slug":"lily-of-the-valley-mystery-manufacture-murder","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/pellwallhelp.com\/blog\/2014\/07\/30\/lily-of-the-valley-mystery-manufacture-murder\/","title":{"rendered":"Lily of the Valley \u2013 mystery, manufacture & murder"},"content":{"rendered":"

\nMystery<\/span><\/h2>\n
\nPerfumery has always glorified the floral and for centuries perfumers
\nhave sought ways to extract the essence from real flowers to incorporate into
\ntheir creations. With many flowers this quest has met with considerable
\nsuccess, with a few commercially viable products produced that are still used
\nin modern perfumery: rose and jasmine being the primary examples.  <\/span><\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n\n\n\n\n
<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Lily of the Valley<\/b> – picture courtesy of Wikimedia Commons<\/a><\/span><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n
\nOne flower that has always eluded extraction is the Lily of the Valley (Convallaria majalis<\/a><\/i>) or Muguet*<\/span>: distillation yields very little of an
\nunpleasant smelling oil not a bit like the dense, exotic scent of the fresh
\nflowers.  <\/span>Solvent extraction and even modern CO2 extracts<\/a> have similarly been completely unable to capture the
\nscent.  <\/span>This is because the flower
\nproduces the scent only at the point of release \u2013 none is stored in the flower
\n\u2013 so it cannot be extracted.  <\/span>The
\nflower itself only contains pre-cursor chemicals from which the scent is formed
\ndirectly into the air.<\/o:p><\/div>\n\n\n\n\n
<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Diorrissimo – picture from Basenotes<\/a><\/span><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n
\nYet many people will be familiar with the scent of Lily of the Valley,
\nnot through smelling the fresh flowers, but from perfumes containing or
\nreplicating its scent \u2013 perhaps the most famous of these being Diorissimo<\/a>.  <\/span>So, if you can\u2019t extract the scent, how
\nis that done?<\/o:p><\/div>\n
\n<\/div>\n
\n
\n
\n*<\/span>Muguet is the French word for Lily of the Valley, a flower popularly used at weddings.  Lily of the valley is a  sweetly scented (and highly poisonous) woodland flowering plant that is native throughout the cool temperate Northern Hemisphere in Asia, Europe and in the southern Appalachian Mountains in the United States.<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n
\n
<\/span><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

\nManufacture<\/span><\/o:p><\/span><\/h2>\n
\nHere we see how the chemist is the perfumers best friend: a
\ngood number of materials have been discovered or created that replicate, at
\nleast in part, the scent of these mysterious flowers.  <\/span>Many people would say that synthetic Lily of the Valley
\nbegins with the synthesis in the early part of the 20th<\/sup> Century of
\nHydroxycitronellal<\/i><\/a>: it\u2019s difficult to be sure exactly when it was first used
\nbecause the nature of the material was kept a closely guarded secret.  <\/span>What we do know is that as early as
\n1906 it was being made by Givaudan and sold under the trade name Laurine<\/i>.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n\n
<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Dr E Emmet Reid<\/b>
\nCredited with re-discovering Hydroxycitronellal
\nImage from The Johns Hopkins University<\/a><\/span><\/span><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

<\/span>At the outbreak of WWI it was being
\nmanufactured in Germany and, as the war meant it ceased to be available,
\nefforts were made to find ways to make it that resulted in it\u2019s being manufactured
\nin an American factory and, during the 20s, it gradually become well-known
\nwithin the trade.  <\/span>Most perfumers
\nwould agree that, while no one chemical can ever fully represent the scent of a
\nflower, hydroxycitronellal gives a very close facsimile to the aroma of the
\nfresh flowers of Lily of the Valley. 
\n<\/span>Curiously enough however it does not appear to be present in that, or
\nany other natural flower scent.<\/o:p><\/div>\n

\nI\u2019m presenting in the sections at the end of this post, descriptions of
\na selection of materials that replicate the scent of Lilly of the Valley, with
\ndescriptions of their olfactory properties as well as, in many cases, the
\nrestrictions on their use that have led to their decline.  <\/span>These are mainly for the benefit of DIY
\nperfumers, but may also be of interest to perfumistas curious about
\ningredients.  <\/span>I\u2019ve included quite a
\nfew quotations from Steffen Arctander\u2019s wonderful descriptions of aroma chemicals<\/a> \u2013
\nrather less well known than his work on materials of natural origin<\/a> \u2013 but just
\nas good.<\/o:p><\/div>\n

\n
<\/span><\/span><\/h2>\n

\nMurder<\/span><\/o:p><\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n\n
<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Structure of Lyral<\/b> – image courtesy Wikimedia Commons<\/a><\/span><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n
\nSo where does the murder come in? 
\n<\/span>Well in one case a forthcoming ban by the European Union will, over the
\nnext couple of years, result in the certain demise from perfumery altogether of
\none of those materials.  <\/span>The
\nmaterial that is being killed off by the regulators is Lyral and although it\u2019s
\nonly going to be banned in the EU, that will very likely be reflected in a
\nprohibition by IFRA (the International Fragrance Association<\/a>) and even if it isn\u2019t all the major perfume manufacturers
\nwill phase it out of use completely, so it will effectively vanish from the
\nworld.<\/o:p><\/p>\n

After the jump you can read detailed descriptions of a range of materials used in connection with Lily of the Valley scents.<\/p><\/div>\n

\n<\/span>
\n<\/a><\/div>\n

\nThe Technical Stuff<\/span><\/span><\/h2>\n
\nThe descriptions that follow are in alphabetical order by the name most
\ncommonly used for the material. 
\n<\/span>This isn\u2019t a complete list of everything ever used for Muguet fragances,
\nbut it does cover all the common materials with a clear muguet note as well as
\none or two of the main modifiers.  Where applicable I\u2019ve mentioned the IFRA limitation<\/a> for alcoholic fine fragrances (not including aftershaves).<\/div>\n
\n<\/div>\n
\n<\/a>I\u2019m indebted to many sources besides my own experience for this material, but primarily the already credited Arctander, the major manufacturers of the materials concerned and The Good Scents Company<\/a> who maintain an excellent online database of perfumery materials, plus of course Wikimedia<\/a> for the remaining images. <\/o:p><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

\n<\/h1>\n

\nBourgeonal<\/o:p><\/h1>\n

\nCAS Number: 18127-01-0<\/o:p><\/h2>\n

\nFull chemical name:<\/o:p><\/h2>\n
\n3-(4-tert-butylphenyl)propanal<\/o:p><\/i><\/b><\/div>\n
\n<\/div>\n
\nVery powerful and
\nonce widely used, this is one of the earliest Lily of the Valley chemicals.  This description is from Givaudan: \u201cOdor:
\nFloral, Green, Muguet, Fresh, Powerful. 
\nUse: Bourgeonal is a powerful, diffusive fresh floral muguet, with a
\nwatery green character. Its unique muguet-aldehyde character is extensively
\nused in toiletries and alcoholic fragrances.<\/i>\u201d<\/o:p><\/div>\n
\n<\/div>\n
\nToday its use is
\nlimited by IFRA to 0.5% of the product<\/o:p><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n
<\/span><\/a><\/h1>\n

\nCyclamen
\nAldehyde<\/span><\/o:p><\/span><\/h1>\n

\nCAS Number: 103-95-7<\/o:p><\/span><\/h2>\n

\nFull chemical name:<\/o:p><\/span><\/h2>\n
\n3-(4-propan-2-ylphenyl)butanal<\/o:p><\/span><\/i><\/b><\/div>\n
\n
<\/span><\/div>\n
\n<\/a>Powerful and
\nversatile, the odour is described as: floral cyclamen, fresh, rhubarb, musty
\nand green. Unlike many aldehydes it is stable in most media and its
\nsubstantivity makes it very useful. 
\n<\/span>Not quite as strong as some aldehydes it is still most often used in
\ndilution.<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n
\n
<\/span><\/div>\n
\nArctander<\/b> describes it
\nas \u201cDiffusive and powerful floral-green,
\nfloral-stem like odor with pronounced vegetable<\/i> Cucumber-Melon-like notes. Overall resembling the odor of
\nLindenblossom.<\/o:p><\/i><\/div>\n
\nExtensively used in perfumery for floral
\neffects, fresh-green-floral topnotes (of lasting fragrance), Useful in Lilac,
\nLily, Peony, Magnolia, Orangeblossom, Alpine Violet, etc.<\/o:p><\/span><\/i><\/div>\n
\nBlends well with the Ionones and all Rose
\nnotes.<\/span><\/i>\u201d<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

\n
<\/span><\/span><\/a><\/h1>\n

\n<\/a>Dupical<\/o:p><\/span><\/span><\/h1>\n

\nCAS Number: 30168-23-1<\/o:p><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/h2>\n

\nFull chemical name:<\/o:p><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/h2>\n
\n4-(octahydro-4,7-methano-5H-inden-5-ylidene)butanal
\n<\/o:p><\/span><\/i><\/b><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n
\n
<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n
\nA
\nGivaudan product described by them as \u201cOdor: Floral, Green, Muguet, Fresh.  <\/span>Use: Dupical is a powerful, fresh,
\ntransparent aldehydic muguet. It is a wonderful modifier and enhancer of the
\nmuguet character in a fragrance. Thanks to its powerful performance, it can be
\nused in all applications.<\/i>\u201d  <\/span>Typical
\naldehydic strength restricts the amount of this material that appears in
\nfragrances to 3% or (usually much less) of the concentrate.<\/o:p><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n

\n
<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/h1>\n

\nFarnesol<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/o:p><\/span><\/span><\/h1>\n

\nCAS Number: 4602-84-0<\/o:p><\/span><\/span><\/h2>\n

\nFull chemical name:<\/o:p><\/span><\/span><\/h2>\n
\n3,7,11-trimethyldodeca-2,6,10-trien-1-ol<\/span><\/i><\/b><\/span><\/o:p><\/span><\/i><\/b><\/span><\/div>\n
\n
<\/span><\/span><\/div>\n
\nThe odour is described as a delicate, fresh,
\ngreen muguet note; mild, sweet, linden-floral and angelica but also as having
\nfruity and spicy aspects such as anise; apricot; balsam; clove; grapefruit;
\noily; orange; peach; pear.  <\/span><\/o:p><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n
\n
<\/span><\/span><\/div>\n
\nFarnesol is one of the classic perfumery
\ningredients and is present in many flowers and herbs from neroli to wild thyme.
\nOnce reserved only for the most expensive fragrances it became more widely
\navailable at the end of the 1960s when synthesis methods improved.<\/o:p><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n
\n
<\/span><\/span><\/div>\n
\nRecommended usage levels are from traces to
\n1.2% of the finished product (the IFRA limit for alcoholic fragrances).
\nTenacity is impressive at around 16 days on a smelling strip meaning it is a
\nbase note, but it has middle-note effects as well. It is stable in soaps and
\nlotions.<\/o:p><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n
\n
<\/span><\/span><\/div>\n
\nArctander<\/b> recommends it as \u201can excellent background note and blender in the delicate floral such
\nas Muguet, Lilac, etc. or in the balsamic types, Oriental fragrances, Chypres
\netc. It combines the softest woody notes of Orris with the sweet and balsamic
\nfloral notes of Muguet, Rose, Magnolia, Acacia, etc. It blends excellently with
\nYlang Ylang, Cassie, Rose, Violet, Neroli, Cyclamen, etc. and it is an almost
\nnecessary ingredient in the so-called \u2018Linden- blossom\u2019 type fragrance.<\/i>\u201d<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n
\n<\/div>\n
\n<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

<\/div>\n

\nLimited by IFRA to
\n1.2% of the finished fragrance.<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

\n
<\/span><\/span><\/h1>\n

\nFloralozone<\/span><\/span><\/o:p><\/span><\/h1>\n

\nCAS Number: 67634-15-5<\/o:p><\/span><\/h2>\n

\nFull chemical name:<\/o:p><\/span><\/h2>\n
\n <\/span>3-(4-ethylphenyl)-2,2-dimethylpropanal<\/i><\/b><\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n
\n
<\/span><\/div>\n
\nAlso called Ozone
\nPropanal and Florazon this is a powerful material, made by IFF (International
\nFlavors and Fragrances), and is described by them like this \u201cPowerful, clean,
\ngreen, fresh air note reminiscent of ocean breezes. Gives lift to fragrances
\nwithout dominating due to its neutral nature\u201c <\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n
\nFloralozone can be
\nused to give a subtle, fresh lift to almost any fragrance when used in small
\namounts but it is especially useful in floral (especially Muguet) compositions
\n\u2013 use too much and the fragrance may become too ozonic however.   <\/span>Used in moderation it is ideal
\nfor adding a \u2018fresh-air\u2019 note to fragrances.<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

\n
<\/span><\/a><\/h1>\n

\nFlorhydral<\/span><\/o:p><\/span><\/h1>\n

\nCAS Number: 125109-85-5<\/o:p><\/span><\/h2>\n

\nFull chemical name:<\/o:p><\/span><\/h2>\n
\n <\/span>3-(3-propan-2-ylphenyl)butanal<\/i><\/b><\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n
\n
<\/span><\/div>\n
\n<\/a><\/div>\n
\nAlso called Floral
\nButanal this is a powerful material, made by Givaudan, and is described by them
\nlike this \u201cFloral, Green, Muguet, Fresh, Powerful. Florhydral has a very
\nfloral, fresh, trendy, natural odour (such as lily-of-the-valley, hyacinth…).
\nIts great intensity and pleasant quality make it useful in all areas of
\nperfumery. Florhydral is also valuable in fragrances for laundry products where
\na fresh residual odour is desired. Florhydral gives naturalness together with
\naldehydes in citrus accords.”<\/i><\/o:p><\/div>\n
\nA superb freshening
\nagent in any floral context, it exalts citrus very well and of course is ideal
\nwhere you need a Lilly of the Valley note that isn\u2019t restricted by IFRA. <\/span><\/span><\/div>\n
\n
<\/span><\/div>\n
\nBest used sparingly except in
\nLilly of the Valley applications. 
\n<\/span>Recommended usage is 0.2-2% and tenacity is a week on a smelling strip,
\nthis material also works well in burning applications such as candles and joss
\nsticks.<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

\n
<\/span><\/a><\/h1>\n

\nHelional<\/o:p><\/span><\/h1>\n

\nCAS Number: 1205-17-0<\/o:p><\/span><\/span><\/h2>\n

\nFull chemical name:<\/o:p><\/span><\/span><\/h2>\n
\n <\/span>3-(1,3-benzodioxol-5-yl)-2-methylpropanal<\/i><\/b><\/o:p><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n
\n
<\/span><\/span><\/div>\n
\nAlso called ocean
\npropanal <\/i>this product was developed by IFF, who describe it like this: \u201cGreen,
\nfloral (cyclemen) with top notes of ozone and new mown hay.<\/i>\u201d I\u2019m not sure they
\nare doing it justice \u2013 this is a lovely ingredient with a wonderfully fresh,
\nwatery quality.<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n
\n
<\/span><\/span><\/div>\n
\nHelional is very easy to use, providing a
\nfresh, light quality.  <\/span>It blends
\nwell with other green notes and is one of very few such notes that can be used
\nfairly freely \u2013 unlike many green fragrance materials it isn\u2019t so strong
\nthat you have to use it with caution to avoid overdoing it.<\/o:p><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n
\n
<\/span><\/span><\/div>\n
\nLimited by IFRA to 5.3% of the finished fragrance, but that\u2019s plenty to have a good impact.<\/div>\n

\n
<\/span><\/span><\/h1>\n

\nHydroxycitronellal<\/span><\/span><\/o:p><\/span><\/h1>\n

\nCAS Number: 107-75-5<\/o:p><\/span><\/h2>\n

\nFull chemical name:<\/o:p><\/span><\/h2>\n
\n7-hydroxy-3,7-dimethyloctanal<\/o:p><\/span><\/i><\/b><\/div>\n
\n
<\/span><\/div>\n
\n<\/a><\/div>\n
\nOne of the best of the range of
\nsynthetics used to recreate the scent of the Lily of the Valley (muguet).  <\/span>Like most of the other materials that
\nimitate that flower it is an aldehyde. 
\n<\/span>Hydroxycitronellal is widely regarded as the single most accurate
\nrepresentation of the Lily of the Valley flower used in fine fragrance and
\nother areas and combines well with other floral and green materials.  <\/span>The scent is described as having
\nsweet-floral perfume-like notes with green citrus and melon undertones. <\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n
\nVintage versions of
\nfragrances such as Diorrisimo used large amounts of this material, but today its
\nuse is limited by IFRA to 1% of the product.<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

\n
<\/span><\/span><\/a><\/h1>\n

\n<\/a>Hydroxycitronellol<\/span><\/span><\/o:p><\/span><\/span><\/h1>\n

\nCAS Number: 107-74-4<\/o:p><\/span><\/span><\/h2>\n

\nFull chemical name: <\/span><\/span><\/h2>\n

3,7-dimethyloctane-1,7-diol<\/i><\/b><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

\n<\/div>\n
\nOdour type is floral with a low odour strength
\nhas a mild, clean, floral note and is very long lasting and closer to rose than
\nmuguet, with aspects of lily and peony. <\/span><\/span><\/div>\n
\n
<\/span><\/span><\/div>\n
\nExcellent fixative and essential
\nstabiliser for the better-known aldehyde (hydroxycitronellal).<\/o:p><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n
\n
<\/b><\/span><\/div>\n
\nArctander<\/b> gives more information: <\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n
\n\u201cVery mild (weak) clean-sweet, floral odour of
\nconsiderable tenacity. The floral type is Rose-Peony, typically less green,
\nless Lily or Muguet than the aldehyde. 
\n<\/span>He goes on to tell us that this alcohol, now often manufactured as an
\nintermediate in the production of Hydroxycitronellal, is used in perfume
\ncompositions originally with the intention of stabilizing Hydroxycitronellal
\nand prolonging the odour life of that aldehyde in composition.<\/o:p><\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
\nHowever, there are other uses for this alcohol,
\nnot always obvious from a brief glimpse at the odour, which is, truly, not
\nimmediately impressive. It has an excellent fixative effect upon many types of
\ndelicate floral fragrance, and as a blender\/modifier for other types.<\/o:p><\/i><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n
\nThe use of Hydroxycitronellol as a stabilizer
\nfor Hydroxycitronellal is still practised, but the author finds that the
\nalcohol has much wider possibilities and virtues of its own as an odorant.<\/i>\u201d<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

\n
<\/span><\/span><\/h1>\n

\nLilial<\/span><\/span><\/o:p><\/span><\/h1>\n

\nCAS Number: 80-54-6<\/o:p><\/span><\/h2>\n

\nFull chemical name:<\/o:p><\/span><\/h2>\n
\n <\/span>3-(4-tert-butylphenyl)butanal<\/i><\/b><\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n
\n
<\/span><\/div>\n
\nOne of a range of
\nsynthetics used to recreate the scent of the Lily of the Valley (muguet).  <\/span>Like most of the other materials that
\nimitate that flower it is an aldehyde. 
\n<\/span>Lilial is widely used in fine fragrance and other areas and combines
\nwell with other floral and green materials.  <\/span>The scent is described as floral muguet, watery, green,
\npowdery and cumin. <\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n
\n
<\/span><\/div>\n
\nIts use is limited
\nby IFRA to 1.9% of the product.<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

\n
<\/span><\/h1>\n

\nLyral<\/o:p><\/span><\/h1>\n

\nCAS Number: 31906-04-4<\/o:p><\/span><\/h2>\n

\nFull chemical name:<\/o:p><\/span><\/h2>\n
\n <\/span>4-(4-hydroxy-4-methylpentyl)cyclohex-3-ene-1-carbaldehyde<\/i><\/b><\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n
\n
<\/span><\/div>\n\n\n\n\n
<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
More Convallaria majalis<\/a>, here with a suitably blood-red
\nbackground for the soon-to-be-murdered Lyral!<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n
\nSynonyms include: cyclohexal, kovanol, leeral, mugonal, HICC, HMPCC<\/div>\n
\n<\/div>\n
\nOne of a range of
\nsynthetics used to recreate the scent of the Lily of the Valley (muguet).  <\/span>Like most of the other materials that
\nimitate that flower it is an aldehyde. 
\n<\/span>Lilial is widely used in fine fragrance and other areas and combines
\nwell with other floral and green materials.  <\/span>The scent is described as floral muguet, watery, green,
\npowdery and cumin. <\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n
\n
<\/span><\/div>\n
\nIts use is already limited
\nby IFRA to 0.2% of the product and it is about to be banned altogether by the
\nEU, which will almost certainly result in it vanishing from perfumer\u2019s palettes
\nworldwide.<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

\n
<\/span><\/a><\/h1>\n

\nMelafleur<\/span><\/o:p><\/span><\/h1>\n

\nCAS Number: 68991-97-9<\/o:p><\/span><\/h2>\n

\nFull chemical name: <\/o:p><\/span><\/h2>\n
\n8,8-dimethyl-2,3,4,5,6,7-hexahydro-1H-naphthalene-2-carbaldehyde<\/o:p><\/span><\/i><\/b><\/div>\n
\n<\/div>\n
\nSynonyms
\ninclude: cyclemone A; cyclomugual; muguet carboxaldehyde<\/o:p><\/div>\n
\n
<\/span><\/div>\n
\nOdour type is
\nfloral, with a medium odour strength: floral, clean, muguet, ozone, marine,
\nsandy and balsamic.<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n
\n
<\/span><\/div>\n
\nManufactured by IFF
\nwho say this of it: \u201cA substantive floral
\nmuguet product having the odour of fresh outdoors with a green, melony
\nbackground<\/i>.\u201d<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n
\n
<\/span><\/div>\n
\nUseful in a wide
\nrange of fragrances to give a fresh lift as well as extremely helpful when
\nyou\u2019re trying to create a good Muguet and have run up against the IFRA limits
\non the more widely used materials in this category as Melafleur has no
\nrestriction and can form up to 15% of your concentrate if you wish.<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

\n
<\/span><\/h1>\n

\nMugetanol<\/o:p><\/span><\/h1>\n

\nCAS Number:  <\/span>63767-86-2<\/o:p><\/span><\/h2>\n

\nFull chemical name:<\/o:p><\/span><\/h2>\n
\n1-(4-propan-2-ylcyclohexyl)ethanol<\/o:p><\/span><\/i><\/b><\/div>\n


<\/span>
\nSynonym: <\/span>Muguet ethanol<\/p>\n

\n<\/div>\n
\nProduced by Symrise,
\nthis is another unrestricted alternative to the older Lily of the Valley
\ningredients, described by them thus: \u201cOdor:
\nlight floral, reminiscent of muguet, with waxy elements<\/i>\u201d<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n
\n
<\/span><\/div>\n
\nParticularly useful
\nbecause, being an alcohol, it is more stable than many of the others and has no IFRA restrictions.<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

\n
<\/span><\/h1>\n

\nPrecyclemone B<\/o:p><\/span><\/h1>\n

\nCAS Number:  <\/span>52474-60-9<\/o:p><\/span><\/h2>\n

\nFull chemical name:<\/o:p><\/span><\/h2>\n
\n1-methyl-3-(4-methylpent-3-enyl)cyclohex-3-ene-1-carbaldehyde<\/o:p><\/span><\/i><\/b><\/div>\n
\n
<\/span><\/div>\n
\nAlso called myrmac aldehyde <\/i>this material is
\nmanufactured by IFF, who describe it like this: \u201cClean, tenacious, ozone note with aldehydic warmth and diffusion.
\nBooster for fragrances requiring a fresh outdoors effect<\/i>.\u201d <\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n
\n
<\/span><\/div>\n
\nBest used in small
\namounts, this is a really excellent fresh-air ingredient. <\/span>With Precyclemone B
\nyou get a very long-lasting freshening effect that works exceptionally well in
\ncitrus fragrances where you want to prolong the fresh feel beyond the life of
\nthe short-lived citrus oils.  In traces
\nit can lighten almost any perfume, larger amounts can be used in
\nroom-fresheners and marine compositions.<\/div>\n

\n
<\/span><\/h1>\n

\nSilvial<\/o:p><\/span><\/h1>\n

\nCAS Number: 6658-48-6<\/o:p><\/span><\/h2>\n

\nFull chemical name: <\/span><\/h2>\n

2-methyl-3-[4-(2-methylpropyl)phenyl]propanal<\/i><\/b><\/span>
\n
<\/span>
\nSynonym: <\/span>cyclamen homoaldehyde<\/p>\n

\n<\/div>\n
\nFloral, green,
\naldehydic and marine this is a powerful and very persistent ingredient
\nmanufactured by Givaudan.  <\/span>It is
\nideal for use in Lily of the Valley fragrances and works well with other muguet
\ningredients.<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n
\n<\/div>\n
\nGivaudan describe it
\nlike this: \u201cSilvial is a powerful,
\nvibrant muguet ingredient with a slight citrus undertone and a fresh, aldehydic
\ntouch that is used in perfumery in the same way as related muguet products<\/i>\u201d<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n
\n<\/div>\n
\nIt is restricted by
\nIFRA to 1.04% of the finished alcoholic fragrance (in aftershaves the amount is
\nonly 0.55%) though that\u2019s plenty to give impact as this material is so powerful.<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n

\n
<\/span><\/h1>\n

\nUndecavertol<\/o:p><\/span><\/h1>\n

\nCAS Number: 81782-77-6<\/o:p><\/span><\/h2>\n

\nFull chemical name:<\/o:p><\/span><\/h2>\n
\n <\/span>(E)-4-methyldec-3-en-5-ol<\/i><\/b><\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n
\n
<\/span><\/div>\n
\n<\/a><\/div>\n
\nAn unusual material,
\nalso known as Violet Decenol, this is a brilliant ingredient for many floral
\nblends that helps to bring out the floral and fruity aspects of other
\nmaterials. <\/span><\/div>\n
\n
<\/span><\/div>\n
\nDescription from Givaudan: “Undecavertol
\nwas developed in connection with structural elucidation work on unknown trace
\ncomponents of lily-of-the-valley. It has a powerful green-floral character,
\nsomewhat related to lily-of-the-valley, with natural, fresh, fruity violet leaf
\nand linden-blossom aspects. It can be used successfully in rose and fruity pear
\naccords. Although easy to use in most perfumery types, Undecavertol requires
\ncareful dosage and blending due to its exceptional strength<\/i>.”<\/o:p><\/span><\/div>\n
\n<\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

\n<\/p>\n
\n
\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Mystery Perfumery has always glorified the floral and for centuries perfumers have sought ways to extract the essence from real flowers to incorporate into their creations. With many flowers this quest has met with considerable success, with a few commercially viable products produced that are still used in modern perfumery: rose and jasmine being the […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[9,6,34,10,35,17,30],"tags":[],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/pellwallhelp.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/30"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/pellwallhelp.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/pellwallhelp.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/pellwallhelp.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/pellwallhelp.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=30"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/pellwallhelp.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/30\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":216,"href":"https:\/\/pellwallhelp.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/30\/revisions\/216"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/pellwallhelp.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=30"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/pellwallhelp.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=30"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/pellwallhelp.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=30"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}